At first I went to the village of Vouno, on the south side of Pentadaktylos, and walked on the hill until the painted red and white fl ag looked like an abstract river of colour on the barren rock. Then I realised I was on the wrong side of the mountain and drove towards Bellapais in search of the site. The slopes of Pentadaktylos on the north side hold the night moisture of the sea breeze and the village gardens are verdant and full of blooming bougainvillea. Luxury cars speed along through the narrow streets of the villages and the villas have foreign names.