It was windy, but it felt so good to sit and observe this eastern edge of the land on which we stand, a dangerous place where opposite sea currents meet. Mr Panikos, from Korakas of Rizokarpaso, used to tell me about Kastros: ‘I often climbed up and gazed out over the entirety of the sea, I could then breathe better. Until the plateau was cemented.’ The rock has an opening with a cave on its northern side, in the shape of a vulva. A particularly powerful place dedicated to Aphrodite Akraia, Aphrodite of the Extremities.